Limping in Marrakech

Dear readers,

It was Christmas Day. I had to keep reminding myself that it was Christmas Day, because my surroundings told me it was summer. The sun was beating down upon the dry, dusty streets as I walked to the salon to get my Christmas Day treat; a relaxing massage. The traffic horns blared, interrupted only by the screech of policemen's whistles as they stood directing the cars, horse-drawn carriages and endless motorbikes. From every restaurant I passed came the rich, tempting smell of lamb tagine.

Because I spent Christmas in Marrakech.

Marrakech is a beautiful city, and December is a lovely time to go. The weather is dry and warm, with daytime temperatures hovering around 25 degrees Celsius. Any hotter, and I would have struggled, as my chronic illness makes both the intense heat and intense cold difficult to handle. In this weather, though, I was perfectly comfortable. I wore blouses and light, mid-length skirts, with a scarf that I could place around my neck or over my head, mostly just to protect me from the sun. While Morocco is a majority-Muslim country, the first I have ever visited, I didn't find any of their customs around clothing to be too restrictive. It's easy to dress in vintage fashion there.

We stayed in a hotel near the popular Hivernage area, full of Western-style hotels and restaurants, but a short enough walk to the Medina, the old part of the city. I feel like this was the perfect compromise, as we were close to many historical sites (the Bahia Palace, Jema El Fna Square and the Saadian tombs) but not too far from a pizzeria if we wanted one.

In one short week we packed in so many adventures. I rode a camel at La Palmeria, a pretty, palm-tree laden oasis just north of the city. Nervous at first, I quickly grew accustomed to sitting on the beautiful creature's back, as we bobbed up and down over the rocky ground. I was particularly impressed by the way that our guide interacted with the camels, gently speaking to the to encourage them to walk, stop for pictures, and let us off at the end. I was also pleasantly surprised at how painless the activity was, having anticipated some joint pain.

Another highlight of the trip was the open-top bus tour. We made a point of taking one on our first day, to help us to get acquainted with the city. I can confirm that it's a great way for tourists to get around easily, and see all the main sites. As with many bus tours, it was accompanied with interesting commentary about the history and culture of Morocco. It was here that we learned about the importance of mint tea.

The tea in Marrakech is unlike any I've had before. Served in ornate silver teapots, it is made from green tea and bundles of fragrant, fresh mint leaves. Sugar is optional, but traditionally it is served very sweet. What fascinated me most is how it is mixed. Instead of just using a teaspoon to mix the sugar, tea and mint, the tea is poured from a height into the cup, and then returned to the pot. This is repeated twice before the tea is considered ready. As you hold the teapot high above the cup to pour, a foam forms on the top of your little glass cup. Finally, it is ready to drink, and you can enjoy the very refreshing drink even in high temperatures.

We were reminded of this ritual by our guide, whom we hired for our trip to Casablanca. Casa is a real treat and definitely worth a visit if you're staying anywhere in Morocco. With its seaside location, it's slightly cooler and wetter than Marrakech, and I was forced to wear my denim jacket. But the cooler temperature and 3 hour drive were all worth it. Our guide was amazing, and kept our interest throughout the journey with stories about the little villages we passed.

Upon arriving in the extremely busy city, we headed straight to the jewel in its crown; the Hassan II mosque. It's mind-bogglingly huge, and extremely beautiful. The esplanade outside it can hold 80,000 people to pray, and receives that number of adherents during important religious events such as Ramadan. Inside, every effort was made to show off the best of Moroccan craftsmanship. Intricate stucco designs adorn the walls, and all the woodwork is made from local cedar, ornately carved. Our guide told us everything we needed to know about how to behave in the mosque; when to remove our shoes, how to pose respectfully for photos. I gasped as I walked in, the same way that I have in many European cathedrals, and I will hold that beautiful memory in my heart. I felt in awe of the place, but we were also made to feel safe and welcome there as visitors.

We followed our trip to the mosque with lunch, at Rick's Cafe. Renovated from an abandoned building and now owned by an American, this upscale restaurant is designed to emulate every detail of Rick's gin bar from the famous film which bears Casablanca's name. It has a lovely calm atmosphere, tasty food and a piano. We walked in as the pianist played 'As Time Goes By'. It's definitely a tourist trap, but an important part of the Casablanca experience; I'd definitely recommend a visit.

Back in Marrakech, we treated ourselves to massages before heading to yet another gorgeous site; the Bahia Palace. Built by a Grand Vizier as a gorgeous home for his wife and concubines, the Palace boasts stunning architecture in a classic Moroccan style. It is a photographer's dream, an Instagrammer's paradise. We spent a couple of hours walking around admiring ornate wooden carvings, sumptuous stained glass and the lovely gardens encased by the palace's high walls. A real highlight of Marrakech is its stunning gardens, where effort is put into cultivating a sense of calm in the bustling heart of the city. To me, Marrakech will always be the city where white roses bloom in December.

Marrakech isn't the most accessible city, with its narrow, cracked pavements, high curbs and busy traffic. But if you can, it's worth a thousand visits, particularly at Christmastime.

Thanks for reading,

Rebecca